The first time I tried an oil cleanser, I was in my 20’s. The internet was still on dia up, and the only instructions I had for cleaning my face were the ones my Granny had given me. So I slathered it on my skin like a cleanser, splashed my face with water, and proceeded to break out with the worst acne ever.

Don’t do that.

Before I drop a formula for a cleansing oil, let’s take a step back to talk about why cleansing oils are so effective and how to correctly use them so you don’t make the same mistake I did.

The marketing we’ve grown up with has taught us that oil is bad, so we purchase harsh soap and cleansers to do the job that oils naturally do. With prolonged use, we suffer from an unbalanced biome, skin sensitvities, or a compromised skin barrier. Then we wonder why our skin is so angry with us.

There are certainly cleansers available today that are gentle on the skin, and they can even be a part of oil cleansing itself. (More on that later.) But for women over 40 (like me!) who are staring down perimenopause, oil cleansing can be a beautiful way to transform your skin. Plus, it’s inexpensive.

The trick is doing it correctly.

The Benefits of Cleansing Oils

The secret to cleansing oils is that they work with your skin, instead of against it.

Our skin has a natural layer of oil (sebum) to protect the skin barrier so instead of stripping the barrier itself, they help to protect it.

Oils are also an occlusive, which is a fancy way of saying that they hold in moisture, so during the cleanse, they are actually working with the water itself to lock in hydration.

Fatty acids (linoleic, oleic) reinforce the skin’s lipid barrier, which helps it hold onto moisture and stay resilient against irritants.

Antioxidants (vitamin E, polyphenols, carotenoids depending on the oil) help neutralize free radical damage from UV and pollution, which is a big driver of visible aging.

Vitamins like A and C (found in oils like rosehip and sea buckthorn) support collagen production and skin repair.

Anti-inflammatory compounds in oils like seabuckthorn or hemp seed oil can calm redness and irritation rather than triggering it.

Non-comedogenic options (when chosen correctly for skin type) clean pores without clogging them, which is part of why “like dissolves like” works so well for cleansing.

Is your regular cleanser doing this kind of heavy lifting?

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How to Effectively Cleanse with Oil

There are two methods of oil cleansing that meet the needs of all skin types, even those with oily skin. These are the keys to radiant, blemish-free skin.

1. Oil Cleansing Method (OCM): This method is suitable for dry, combination, and normal skin types. Massage the oil directly onto dry skin, then let it sit for a minute or two to break down makeup, sunscreen, and buildup. Remove the oil with a warm, damp washcloth using gentle circular motions.

   Pro tip: If your skin is on the dryer side of the spectrum, use a small amount of your oil cleanser as a serum to seal in the moisture from the light layer of water left on your skin.

2. Double cleansing: This method is suitable for all skin types, especially those that are on the oily end of the spectrum. Use the OCM first to dissolve makeup, sunscreen, and oil-based buildup, then follow with a gentle water-based cleanser to remove any residue and clean the skin more thoroughly.

   This method is great for those wearing heavier makeup (think full coverage foundation, face and eye primers, or lash glue) or who wear SPF daily (especially mineral SPF).

If I haven’t convinced you yet, start with an evening-only oil cleansing routine. At the end of a long day, simply cleansing your face with nourishing oils, a washcloth or cosmetic round, and warm water is a refreshing way to prep your skin for serums and hydration.

Once you’re comfortable with that, you will find that a morning oil cleanse creates a clean canvas for your daily skincare and cosmetic routine.

It truly is the foundation of a personal skincare ritual.

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The Secret to No Breakouts

Start slowly.

Begin your ritual using the double cleanse method in the evenings only.

Don’t skip the cloth. It not only exfoliates the skin but also prevents leaving a layer of oil behind.

Only use non-comedogenic oils for cleansing. This isn’t a bad rule overall, but is super important for those prone to breakouts.

And for that dreaded adjustment period? I’ve learned that any new skin ritual can cause issues like drying or purging, and oil cleansing is not immune to this.

If you find that your skin is more dry after cleansing for a few days, check to make sure the oil you’re using is not a drying oil. (Yes, they do exist!)

If you find that your skin is purging and you’re starting slowly with non-comedogenic oils, give it a little time before giving up.

My Favorite Oils for Cleansing

Here are my tried-and-true cleansing oils, broken down for each skin type, along with the oil bible everyone who is serious about their skincare needs.

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I’m Lisa, an herbalist, perfumer, and formulator who’s spent years making my own skincare and beauty products at home. Here’s what all that deep-diving taught me: most ingredients and actives aren’t expensive. Marketing is.

In The Sanctuary, I’m going to teach you how to make your own natural, plant-based skincare at home without fancy equipment and using ingredients that are easy to source.

We’ll do some deep-dives, taking the products you already love, breaking down why they actually work, and remaking them at home. First up: Living Libations’ Sea Buckthorn Cleansing Oil. We’re breaking down exactly what’s in it and why, then making our own version for a fraction of the price.

But this isn’t only about dupes. I’ll also be sharing simple, effective formulations you won’t find anywhere else, made exclusively for Sanctuary readers. Some weeks we’re reverse engineering. Some weeks we’re creating something brand new together.

You don’t need to be a formulator or have an understanding of beauty science to participate. You just need a clean space, a little curiosity, and a willingness to learn. Oh, and you’ll save a ton of money doing it.

My promise to you:

• No AI BS

• No animal testing (just humans!)

• Always a safe space for everyone

Hit subscribe. And welcome to The Sanctuary. 💜

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